Originally published December 17, 2011 at 10:00 PM | Page modified December 18, 2011 at 12:01 AM
Derek Hayes has a passion for mapping our history
From vanished villages to grand plans, Hayes draws a picture of our past and bundles it up in his eye-catching books.
Dutch cartographer Cornelis de Jode created this plate for an atlas in 1593. Reflecting what was then considered the western end of a Northwest Passage running across the top of the continent, it bears almost no relation to reality.
A map by Henry Warre and Mervin Vavasour depicts Oregon City in 1845. The first part of the city is platted below the river escarpment (lower center). At lower right is the road from Champoeg (Cham-poo-ey), the de facto capital of Oregon in the 1840s. The grist mills of Dr. John McLoughlin (Hudson's Bay Company regional chief) and others are noted by the falls and ferry at center.
BENJAMIN BENSCHNEIDER / THE SEATTLE TIMES
Map collector Derek Hayes, author of "Historical Atlas of Washington and Oregon," offers readers an array of material, including photos, posters and paintings as well as gorgeous maps.
A bird's-eye map of Seattle in 1891 emphasizes the downtown area as brick built after the Great Fire two years earlier. Also visible: a narrow connection -- the Montlake log canal, cut in 1861 and expanded in 1883 -- between Lake Washington (top right) and Lake Union. The shallow southern part of Elliott Bay (lower right) was later filled in. The three different street orientations of the city center are the result of three different original owners.
French mapmaker Jean Janvier's 1762 interpretation of accounts by Juan de Fuca, Martin de Aguilar and Bartholomew de Fonte. Like others of the time, this one features Mer ou Baye de l'Ouest (Sea or Bay of the West) covering what should be Washington and more. Juan de Fuca reported sailing a sea for 20 days, which could have been the Strait of Georgia or Puget Sound.
An ornately bordered map, published in 1860, shows that Washington Territory then embraced much of what is today the state of Idaho. Only a part of what had been Oregon Territory became the state of Oregon in 1859. The push for statehood took on greater urgency after the Dred Scott case of 1856 declared that territories had no right to exclude slavery.
After the Northern Pacific Railway selected Tacoma as its terminus in 1873, landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted's firm was hired to plan the city. In his innovative design, which tried to conform to the city's topography, streets curve around hillsides and steep slopes are ascended on diagonals rather than traditional right angles. But the railroad board rejected the plan in favor of a more conventional one.
A U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey shows Tacoma in 1889. The mud flats that would become the Port of Tacoma are at right. The old transcontinental-railroad connection is marked as the Kalama Branch N.P.R.R. (at bottom); the new transcontinental link, via Stampede Pass, is shown as the Puyallup Branch (lower right), crossing the tideland on a trestle.
An 1845 sketch of Oregon City, the end of the Oregon Trail, looks across the Willamette River from the west bank. It was painted by British military spy Lt. Henry Warre, whose reconnaissance of Oregon with Lt. Mervin Vavasour left a legacy of excellent maps and sketches. The trail was the route by which the majority of the first EuroAmericans arrived in wagons to settle the region.
The Washington State Apple Advertising Commission (now the Washington Apple Commission) was created in 1937 to promote the apple industry. It published this promotional map in 1948 displaying apple varieties then popular.
A Japanese map, reproduced in the Los Angeles Examiner in August 1943, reputedly showed their strategy for winning World War II. The map was said to have been obtained by a Korean spy. It seems far-fetched now, but the Japanese apparently thought they could capture and hold all of the United States west of the Rocky Mountains while the rest of the country would have to sue for peace.
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To learn more about Derek Hayes' work, go to http://www.derekhayes.ca.
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IT STARTED with postage stamps — those tiny icons of geography, history and politics from all over the globe. Derek Hayes, a young lad in England, collected them. "I could tell you the capitals of the world," Hayes remembers. "I liked knowing where things were."
Well, yes. The young stamp collector became a geography major at the University of Hull. He emigrated to Canada. He got a job working as a city planner in Vancouver, B.C., then launched a gardening-products business, which led to a gardening-books business.
A nicely sedate business for a bookish guy. Then, one summer in the mid-1970s, Hayes and his wife were rummaging through bric-a-brac in an English shop, looking for some wall art. "We found this old map of North America that showed Russian territory," he remembers. "I had no idea that Alaska had been Russian territory! We bought the map."
Most of us, happy that the map matched the couch, would have stopped there. But in Hayes, it triggered something. "I started trying to date maps — trying to figure out why this was here and that was there," he recalls. He started to collect maps and images of maps. Everywhere. Shops. Sales. Archives. eBay. "It's amazing, what you can buy on eBay," Hayes says with a faraway look in his eye.
On business trips to England he would linger an extra couple of days, hanging with the clerks at Britain's Naval Archives. There you could, at your leisure, look through Capt. George Vancouver's original surveys of the Northwest Coast. "It was very homey," Hayes muses. "Halfway through the morning, the tea lady would come through."
He was a little shocked at the Brits' casual attitude toward very old stuff. He found a 6-by-6-foot map of Captain Cook's 1765 survey of the coast of Newfoundland, produced by Cook himself. When Hayes started unrolling it, it started to crumble in his hands. "They weren't going to stop me," Hayes says, "but I wasn't going to watch history disintegrate in my hands."
Hayes had been captured by the multiple passions of the collector: the need to find, the need to preserve, the need to unearth the next treasure. Luckily for his fans, he had one more urge: the need to share. In the late 1990s he began to wonder if he could merge his map collection with his passion for history and his expertise in book publishing. "I thought, this stuff is interesting. Maybe someone else would be interested."
In 1999, Hayes self-published his first book, "Historical Atlas of British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest," in Canada. He brought it over the border and showed it to the people at Seattle's Sasquatch Books.
Sasquatch publisher Gary Luke remembers when Hayes brought it in:
"It was a totally beautiful book. We had never seen a book like that before."
Hayes, says Luke, was "one of these completely original authors who was completely passionate about a topic and was so deep into it, the result was unique."
Published in this country as the "Historical Atlas of the Pacific Northwest," it sold 31,000 copies on both sides of the border (it's still in print). Hayes followed it with a book about Canadian explorer Alexander Mackenzie, then historical atlases of the North Pacific Ocean, Canada and the Arctic, among others. In 2006, Hayes' book "Historical Atlas of the United States" was published by the prestigious University of California Press, which has remained his U.S. publisher ever since.
NOW HAYES has come back full circle to the Northwest with his 15th book, "Historical Atlas of Washington and Oregon" (University of California Press, $39.95).
David Wrobel, Merrick Chair in Western American History at the University of Oklahoma, served on a peer-review committee for Hayes' UC Press books. Wrobel says Hayes' books are a "visual delight," smartly organized and well-written.
But beyond that, they embody an "expansive vision" of the historical-atlas genre, Wrobel wrote in an email: "A historical atlas should be more than a mere collection of maps that illustrate the cartographic representation of a place over time . . . All of the traditional cartographic images that one would expect within the pages of a historical atlas appear in his works, but they do so along with a wonderfully rich array of other sources including satellite maps, promotional posters, photographs (both contemporary and concurrent), and paintings."
To leaf through a Hayes atlas is a bit like a solitary ramble through a museum (the Victoria and Albert in London comes to mind) with no guard to check you as you rummage through the cupboards. A treasure here, a surprise there, a little shock at what people in the past were thinking. A map drawn by William Clark himself. Vanished villages (Champoeg, Ore.). King County evacuation routes, in the event a nuclear bomb was dropped on Seattle.
Hayes' new book starts with the first maps of our area, among the last in the world that Europeans explored. These fanciful creations, with made-up coastlines and half-unicorn sea creatures, were designed by mapmakers who were "trying to sell maps. They didn't want to have a blank space," Hayes says. A sea monster or two filled the gaps nicely.
There are maps hand-drawn by explorers and sketches of early Northwest settlements by English spies, from the era when the governance of the Northwest was still up for grabs. Inevitably, there are few maps produced by Native Americans. "This is not to say that aboriginal people did not make maps; indeed they did, and sometimes these maps were given to, and used by, explorers in the construction of their own maps," Hayes wrote in his first book. "But the predominantly oral tradition of the native peoples means that few native maps survive today."
There are maps of bad times. A hand-drawn map of Seattle's Hooverville, a Depression-era homeless camp; a World War II plan for the forced evacuation of Japanese Americans from the West Coast. There are maps of grand schemes and doomed dreams — Frederick Law Olmsted's never-implemented city plan for Tacoma; a map plotting four different routes for cross-Puget Sound floating bridges. Adding color and spice to the mix are pamphlets, postcards and posters that capture the zeitgeist of decades gone by.
Hayes especially admires "bird's-eye maps," created in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to promote cities all over America. First, a framework of streets would be prepared, then artists "walked the streets, sketching trees, buildings and other features as though seen from an elevation of 600 to 900 metres (2,000 to 3,000 feet)," Hayes wrote in his first book. "No mean task with no means of actually looking at the scene from above!"
HAYES' ATLASES bring to mind the inevitable question: In the record of our digital era, what will the future have to look back on? This connoisseur worries about the future of atlases, books and bookstores. In an age of Google Maps and GPS, what will become of maps as works of art?
To be sure, that same digital technology has aided his gathering of material for future books. Hayes mostly collects images of maps, not the maps themselves, which remain in museums and private collections. Digital photography and printing have streamlined his life's work. He estimates that he has 12,000 images in his archive.
Hayes is president of the Historical Map Society of British Columbia, and he recently helped a museum in the B.C. interior that was "de-accessioning" (getting rid of) the maps that didn't pertain to its location. "I managed to find homes for most of those," he says.
It's a race against time.
Hayes knows that maps, however beautiful and informative, are the most ephemeral of objects. "The material you do have to work with," he says, "is a very, very small fraction of what has survived."
Mary Ann Gwinn is The Seattle Times book editor.












